On the Rails: Putting the Heart into Wales…
Adventures are a wonderful mix of anxiety, anticipation and excitement. Packaging these emotions up along with my rucksack and pack lunch I made my way through the dawn towards the station in Penarth, starting my journey from a single line, a foretaste of what was to come…
The Stadler battery electric Flirt whisked me smoothly and quietly to Cardiff Central - infuriating small unit numbers remind me of the Intercity trend in the early 90s that frustrated my spotting then, as now. Waiting in platform 4 was one of the ubiquitous CAF 197, just two cars but I grabbed a seat. As commuters arrived into Central from the various ‘metro’ routes it filled up quickly and we left for Swansea with almost standing room only. Whizzing along the South Wales mainline between suburbia and countryside alike as the country awoke. Through the window and spots of drizzle the dark clouds and dull light reluctantly illuminating faded industry and tired infrastructure. Meloncholy washes over me as I fondly remember the photos of steel trains at Margam and coal coal coal trains in my childhood book - mostly now just ghosts belonging to another time…
Arriving into Swansea, a station I felt I knew from photographs… Stepping off the train a louder rumble, and rather exciting to see the New Measurement Train creeping into Platform 1. What the passengers waiting for the Manchester train thought is anyone’s guess (later changed to Platform 4).
With the GWR IET in Platform 3 where was my 08:56 service to Shrewsbury? I’m pulling your leg a little, as I’d already found it tucked in ahead of our 197, which continued to Milford Haven (despite the distance, to arrive over two hours before I would in Shrewsbury!)… and rather than the typical 153 I associated with the trip I was delighted to find a 150/2… these TfW old venerable workhorses have spent most of their working lives in Wales, I was excited to travel aboard - every time I wonder if it’s my last 150 journey… one day it might be…
Leaving Swansea past Landore, my thoughts turned to the cut down 03s and 08s this depot created to suit the unique Burry Port and Gwendraeth branch… racing across the Gower to Llanelli at line speed, the train was quiet but the noise, the noise, I was transported to my twenties once more, memories of the same units on the Transpennine express. Magic - not just public transport but time machines…
Leaving Llanelli after a reverse (pre-considered and my seat accordingly) and on to the Heart of Wales proper the character of the train changed. We swapped welded rails for winding rivers from the estuary to the mountains. Small towns and even smaller stations, signal boxes, a lone semaphore at Pantyffynon, level crossings, tokens operated by the driver… the train got busier too, with locals using the service as well as several bike riders and other enthusiasts. Truly a train for all.
I relaxed into the experience, its duration something to be savoured. Fields and a wide river valley gently narrowed and the hills encroached, then rising and climbing towards the first summit at Sugarloaf. It was exciting to enter the first tunnel, burst out, cross a bridge and arrive at Pontarddulais - the real village that inspired my infamous OO gauge micro… a sketch might follow. Settlements became smaller as stations continued but by Llandovery the train was pretty much full! Descending for the first time towards Llandrindod Wells where we enjoyed a 40 minute wait to cross with the train coming south from Shrewsbury…
Joined by a gentleman who enjoyed a chat the rest of the journey was less focused and reflective, but certainly as enjoyable. Heading back towards civilisation it was good to talk, and warm back up to the inevitable bustle at Shrewsbury.
Turning back, one last look at my steed, the little 150 waiting for its return journey to Swansea. I had enjoyed both the vista, the train but most of all the opportunity to slow down and loose myself in the journey, all day, lost - only to find myself once more, to remember who I am and who I could be…
The efficient 197 collected me from Platform 4 whisking me home with less comfort, style or character - but as I stepped off the train in Ruabon and took this photo I pondered if in 30 years I’d be hunting out journeys and experiences aboard these old dears, reminiscing of my mid-life adventures aboard them on the Welsh mainlines? The only thing certain, they say, is change.
I’m glad I took the chance to ride the Heart of Wales. Not only a beautiful route, but just the ticket for my state of mind, a chance for personal reflection amongst the green valleys at a pace that rewards introspection. Thank you for reading, I wonder where these rails will take me, perhaps you, next?
Until next time, more soon…
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The three loop and siding passing places are great food for thought.
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