Telling stories with 03078...

A couple of weeks ago I wrote about my Class 03 collection - triggered by completing this model of 03078. In the days that have followed I have continued to enjoy it's faded form and especially, the weathered finish...


It felt like the model deserved the spotlight - a solo focus on the creation of so much character in such a small package and the potential for story telling, once more, in British N gauge.

Others may tell you different but I think the best way to get the most character out of these diminutive models is a bare shell respray. Removing the factory paint reveals a fine crisp character in the tooling - and has the benefit of allowing us to build up a finish from scratch. Overcome those fears, strip a model down to parts and dunk the bodyshell in some 91% IPA.

Strip it to parts means, in this case, remove the body, glazing, horn and cab handrails.


Once the model is naked, refit the cab side handrails and horn, then prime. 

This is the most faded BR blue I’ve attempted. I feared, when I first applied it, that I’d gone too far! Adding Humbrol 28 to ‘weathered BR blue’ in the Phoenix range tints it down in a way that feels very real. BR blue seems to go chalky with age, not faded white, but that off white chalk colour that Humbrol 28 closely resembles. I trusted the process and carried on…

Faded yellow ends actually first, then the blue, then gloss lacquer. 

The wasp stripes are decals from Fox. They’re cut to approximate size and using Microsol applied over the details - settling into place. Several applications may be required to get them to settle over the rear lamps - and worst case, pierce the film here and press down with a dampened kitchen towel, and then reapply the Micro-sol. Once dry cut out the windows and centre of the grill. Refit the rear cab handrail.

Detail painting with a fine brush - black wasp stripes need taking round the corner of the bonnet. Window frames and top of the rear touched in black too… Humbrol 28 for the bonnet top and cab handrails 

Cab numbers, arrows and warning flashes. All Fox. Seal with matt lacquer.

Reassemble the model, refit the glazing, fit couplinks and buffer beam pipework. In my case block in the gap in the beam below the DG. I stripped the rods, removed the thick paint and chemically blackened them. 


Weathering now follows - a wet on wet wash of Humbrol 33/98 on the body, following prototype photos. Similar approach on the chassis. Chipped paint simulated using neat 33/98 and a worn old brush. Airbrushed 125/133/27004 to soften the edges and add some more dirt from above. Drybrushed 53 to finish. 

Sounds easy written down. A series of well rehearsed steps. 

Each comfortable and the artist knows the processes, useing each to create the finished piece. If you’re still worrying about technique then practice is your friend. The result though, whatever the skill or finesse you’ve achieved will be all yours…

In the meantime, I’m writing my own stories with this little Geordie gem. Until next time, more soon…
The real 03078 is preserved on the wonderful North Tyneside Steam Railway.




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Comments

  1. James i must admit i have a really soft spot for the class 03s. Its always nice to showcase one's loco and a lovely write up have a good day.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Kevin. There is something very human about these smaller shunters I find

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  2. It’s a lovely thing James. Thanks for the encouraging step-by-step….
    Coming from a not fully successful (yet) 2mm finescale angle, I’d be tempted to replace the rods, do you know if the Farish ones come off easily? I’m asking for anybody else because I have far too many other projects yet to bear fruit to start on this one, very tempting though you make it!

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