Cock ups happen to us all...

We all have them, from time to time, and in my experience they frequently occur just before you're about to finish a model - in the varnish/lacquer stage...

Many years ago I suffered from blooming with satin varnish applied to a garden railway model and it was heart wrenching - hours of effort spoilt in less than a minute as right before your eyes a model starts to turn all milky... that was the last time I used varnish on a model - from that moment onwards I've been a strong supporter of Testors Dull-cote (although very soon that will have to change too, as you can no longer get in the UK - I've a few options to try out in the coming months before my supply is exhausted).

Dull-cote isn't without it's own problems - it's a solvent based lacquer and as such runs the risk of damaging decals/transfers and paintwork. The worst I've had in the past is when some transfers wrinkled - that meant some deft re-working once everything was dry and then partially removing the dull-cote and reworking (after the air had cleared obviously). In this case though something else strange happened, the dull-cote appeared to craze as it dried. Now this was more serious, as it was quite extensive and this model was hard to paint because it's not easy to dis-assemble and protect the glazing. The problem areas were where I'd applied a gloss 'panel' with Humbrol enamels over the original markings. These were thoroughly dry, and I'd used gloss so that the transfers would adhere nicely, but not sides did the same, as well as the ends to some degree.

I did some research online, and stumbled upon an idea... to use Micro-set and Micro-sol to soften the dull-cote. In the forum topic the user described using a tooth brush to then remove the dull-cote from his model, but I thought I wonder if applying the Micro-sol would shrink this effect, as it does with transfers. Alas, no, but it did improve matters, smoothing the creases down, but they were still visible.

So I set to with more Micro-sol and a toothbrush, carefully removing the dull-cote from the body where it was damaged, along with the transfers on the door panels.

Once thoroughly dry and cleaned up I re-masked the panels, and applied some fresh Humbrol enamel, this time opting for a matt dark grey. I have decided to put the numbers on the lower cab side, so these have been coated with the new 'Humbrol Gloss' which doesn't smell like a normal varnish, and says it'a self levelling. It's certainly quick drying and a few coats have achieved a glossy enough finish to apply some new numbers. Once these are on, and dried over a few days I'll use a NEW can of dull-cote.

So why did this happen? I have a suspicion it was two factors both caused by one issue - the can was nearly empty. This meant it has less propellant so you end up applying a heavier coat. It also means the solvent is more concentrated so it's 'hotter'. This damage only ever happens with old cans, I should no better! Anyway, these things happen to us all, sometime's they even work out for the best with a neat effect you can use in subsequent weathering or the opportunity to re-work a section of a model you're not happy with. It's about keeping calm and then thinking about how the model can be rescued that will stand you in good stead, but this is something best done once you've finished being cross - walk away, put the 'can' down and go and have a cup of tea and come back to the problem with fresh eyes another day. 

If you've had a similar problem why not share your experiences so others can learn from the mistakes and how they were rectified. Until next time, more soon...